I stand in the cool stream of water from a half full 5 litre jerrycan which is the shower in the dirty smelly bathroom This is the best shower of my life. I cry, I have never been so happy.
Shane Little cycled for a month in Uganda during the run up to the 2011 elections as a trial run for his big trip. Read more here.
In recent years while living and working in the Netherlands, Shane rediscovered his passion for cycling. Later this year, he will leave his home, work and girlfriend to fulfill his dream by cycling home from Cape Town over a year or two. Follow his progress on Facebook, Twitter or on his website: http://www.shanecycles.com/africa
I have a restless night, I’m still not totally comfortable with camping “wild”, I prefer to have the “safety” of a campsite and just put my earplugs in for the noise. I’m startled awake at 3am, its dark and I hear footsteps, “shit, what happens if I’m on someone’s grazing area and he heard me snoring and doesn’t like trespassers”. An hour later all the cows have munched their way past my tent.
The next evening, its almost dark, I’m really tired and sore after lugging my 40kg bike up hills, through farmers fields and banana plantations. If only I hadn’t been so stubborn and had turned back earlier after the wrong turn. I’ve cycled, walked, pushed and pulled my bike 90km today over some of the worst roads I’ve ever ridden, I need sleep! The roads are still full of people, the election caravan passed an hour ago so everyone is on the move. Luckily after dark everyone disappears like cockroaches from a torch light, Africa sleeps. I see a dark spot just 10m from the road, just big enough for my tent. Hmm, this is probably someone’s land. I’m past caring, if someone wants to murder me in the morning that’s fine, at least I’ll have had a good night’s sleep.
No cockerels this morning, instead the sound of machetes in wood and corn. I unzip my tent door and look outside at the 3 farmers. I give them a polite and slightly nervous smile and wave. They wave back and one says, “good morning Mzungu”. Guess I won’t be getting murdered this morning.
After three sweaty and dusty days I’m ready for a shower and cold beer so push onto Kyenjojo. I walk into the reception of a big pink hotel, order a cold beer and ask if they have a room. 15 minutes later the lady returns to tell me they’re full… As I leave the hotel I see a tourist sitting on the steps, we chat and I ask if he knows of other options in town. He tells me the other hotels are either very bad or $50 (way over my budget). He then offers some floor space in his small apartment in town warning that it isn’t much of a place. Once again while travelling I’m saved by the kindness of a complete stranger.
He was right, his place isn’t much, its small, the bathroom is filthy, smells of stale water and the toilet is outside. But after 3 hard sweaty days on dusty roads, I’ve had a nice meal and a couple of warm beers with a complete stranger. I stand in the cool stream of water from a half full 5 litre jerrycan which is the shower in the dirty smelly bathroom.
This is the best shower of my life. I cry, I have never been so happy.
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